Yunan-Pu'er: A Journey into the Tea Horse Road
In October 2024, the Chinese Tea Alliance embarked on an exploration trip to Yunnan's Pu'er region, starting with a visit to the Ning'er section of the ancient Tea Horse Road. Dating back to the Tang Dynasty, the Tea Horse Road played a crucial role in trade across southwestern and northwestern China, where tea and horses were the main commodities exchanged. Its intricate network of trails—centered on the Sichuan-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet, and Qinghai-Tibet routes—linked diverse regions through challenging terrain, creating a legendary trade network etched with stories of resilience and endurance.
Porters on the Ancient Tea Horse Road
Relief Sculpture of the Monument on the Ancient Tea Horse Road
Our journey brought us to Nakeli, a historic village in southern Ning'er County, located 16 kilometers from the county seat and 25 kilometers from Pu'er City. Nakeli, once a vital station on the Tea Horse Road during the Pu'er Prefecture era, exudes a timeless charm. Known as the birthplace of the folk song Ballad of the Mule Caravan, the village is home to 66 households, nestled among rivers and mountains in a serene natural setting. Preserved within Nakeli are the remnants of the Tea Horse Road, a protected cultural heritage site, alongside the century-old Rongfa Inn. This inn, filled with relics like mule lanterns and stone troughs, offers visitors a glimpse into the vibrant history of trade caravans, where tea culture and the heritage of the ancient trail intersect beautifully.
Route Map of the Ancient Tea Horse Road
Nakeli's history is fascinating. Its original name, "Makuli" (literally "Weeping Horse Village"), came from a poignant tale: weary mules crossing a river near the Rongfa Inn would shed tears upon seeing the cool waters after long treks. Later, a covered bridge was built, and the village was renamed Nakeli, meaning "lush fields, bridges, and harmony" in the local Dai language. Today, it remains a diverse border village inhabited by ethnic groups such as the Yi, Hani, and Dai, embodying a harmonious blend of cultures and traditions.
Walking through Nakeli along its moss-covered stone paths, we felt transported to a different era. Unlike many over-commercialized ancient towns, Nakeli retains its authenticity. The peaceful village is free from blaring music and aggressive shopkeepers; instead, locals live unhurried lives, sharing stories with visitors. Brewing a pot of fragrant Pu'er tea here, reclining with a bamboo fan in hand, and gazing at the sky offers a moment of tranquility where time seems to stand still. Visitors can also experience making their own tea cake—a unique and aromatic souvenir that encapsulates the essence of this charming village.
The rugged stone paths and the legendary Horse Jumping Rock, once testing grounds for caravan mules, reminded us of the formidable challenges faced by traders. A wooden suspension bridge over the river sways gently underfoot, offering breathtaking yet slightly nerve-wracking views of the rushing waters below. The village’s two waterwheels, one near the Rongfa Inn and another by the suspension bridge, add a rustic charm, turning lazily with the river's flow, silently recounting the passage of time.
A pair of intertwined banyan trees, known as the "Lover’s Banyans," stands as a testament to enduring love. Locals have built a symbolic “Heart Bridge” and placed a clay heart on one of the trees to commemorate this tale, representing love's resilience despite separation.
Though small in size, Nakeli’s charm unfolds leisurely in just a couple of hours. A meal at the Rongfa Inn is a must-try, where the flavors of local cuisine add a delicious layer to the journey.
The Chinese Tea Alliance's visit to Pu'er, especially to Nakeli, deepened our appreciation for the cultural and historical significance of the Tea Horse Road.