Qimen An Tea: A Legend Sealed in Antique Bamboo Baskets

In Qimen, Anhui, beyond the world-renowned century-old Keemun Black Tea, there exists an even older and more time-worn dark tea: An Tea (安茶, An Cha). Its origins can be traced back to the Yongle reign of the Ming dynasty, giving it a history of more than six hundred years. Owing to its distinctive and remarkable medicinal properties, An Tea was long revered as a “sacred tea” in Lingnan and Southeast Asia, playing an important role in both everyday life and the tea trade. It stands as a rare and singular treasure in the history of Qimen tea.

An Tea is also exceptional in flavor, combining the strengths of several tea types: it carries the elegant floral fragrance of scented teas, the mellow sweetness and lingering aftertaste of Pu-erh, and a subtle hint of Oolong Tea’s distinctive charm. Beyond its enjoyment as a beverage, it has traditionally been valued for its functions of clearing heat, detoxifying, dispelling dampness, and relieving summer heat.

Originating in the Ming dynasty, An Tea gradually took shape and flourished by the third year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing dynasty (1725), reaching its golden age before the Guangxu period and becoming highly popular throughout Guangdong, Guangxi, and Southeast Asia. However, with the rise of Keemun Black Tea, An Tea’s production areas steadily shrank. Coupled with disrupted trade routes during times of war, An Tea was forced to cease production in 1937 and faded from public view. After half a century of silence and hardship, An Tea was finally revived in 1992 and has since embarked on a path of renewal, returning once more to the world’s attention.

1. An Tea, also known as “Lao Liu’an” (with “Liu” pronounced liù, not lù)

Qimen An Tea originates from Qimen County in Anhui Province. Owing to its distinctive health-preserving properties—traditionally believed to balance the six vital energies and harmonize the internal organs—it was named “Liu’an” and is often referred to as “Lao Liu’an,” with liu pronounced liù. Although the written characters are identical to those of the prefecture-level city of Lu’an (六安, pronounced lù), the pronunciation is different. As a result, An Tea is frequently mistaken for a tea produced in Lu’an City. In fact, authentic An Tea has always been produced in Qimen, Anhui, and bears no direct connection to Lu’an City.

In January 2014, An Tea was officially granted National Geographical Indication Protection status. Its designated production area includes fifteen administrative townships in Qimen County, such as Luxi 芦溪Township and Rongkou 溶口 Township, formally affirming the tea’s unique origin and irreplaceable regional heritage.

2. An Tea Is Not Anhua Dark Tea

Qimen An Tea is a dark tea produced in Qimen County, Anhui Province, whereas Anhua Dark Tea originates from Anhua County in Hunan Province. Although both belong to the broader category of dark tea, they differ markedly in terroir, processing techniques, and flavor profiles, representing two entirely distinct styles of tea.

Because both are classified as dark tea and share the character “An 安” in their names, the two are often confused in the market and in general understanding. However, in terms of historical lineage, production methods, and sensory expression, An Tea and Anhua Dark Tea are fundamentally different and should be clearly distinguished.

3. Delicious Without Waiting: New An Tea Tastes Great

The infusion of freshly made Qimen An Tea reveals remarkable complexity—often described as “three flavors in one tea.” It carries the fresh vibrancy of green tea, the gentle sweetness of black tea, and a subtle mineral-driven resonance reminiscent of rock tea. The opening is clean and refreshing, the mid-palate full-bodied and well-balanced, and the finish sweet, clear, and lingering, creating an overall impression that is refined, elegant, and quietly expressive.

An Tea is commonly categorized by its aging stages: new tea (1–3 years), early-stage tea (4–5 years), mid-aged tea (6–10 years), and aged tea (over 10 years). The true allure of An Tea lies in its gradual transformation over time. As it ages, the youthful sharpness slowly fades, while aged aromas, jujube-like sweetness, and gentle herbal notes become increasingly pronounced. At the same time, the liquor gains greater depth, viscosity, and smoothness, resulting in a more rounded and satisfying mouthfeel.

4. Bitter? It’s Likely a Brewing Issue

An Tea is rich in soluble compounds. When too much leaf is used, the infusion is steeped for too long, or the liquor is released too slowly, pronounced bitterness and astringency can easily occur. This sensation mainly arises from two factors.

The first is the raw material. Qimen An Tea is made from the Zhuye cultivar, which is naturally high in active compounds. In its early years, especially when freshly made, levels of tea polyphenols, caffeine, and flavonoids are relatively high, making the tea more sensitive to improper brewing.

The second factor is processing. Newly made An Tea typically undergoes relatively heavy roasting, a technique designed to support proper aging and long-term transformation. As a result, bitterness may be more noticeable in its youth. However, this bitterness is not a flaw—it reflects the tea’s “activity” and gradually softens and transforms during storage and aging. In addition, An Tea involves a cutting process during production. Compared with many other teas, the dry leaves may appear slightly broken, which allows soluble substances to be released more quickly during brewing, intensifying the flavor if not carefully controlled.

As storage time increases, flavonoid compounds associated with astringency—such as quercetin derivatives and kaempferol—gradually decrease. The tea liquor correspondingly becomes smoother, rounder, and sweeter. For those new to An Tea, a tea-to-water ratio of 1:50 is recommended. Brew with boiling water in a zhuni Yixing clay teapot, and pour soup out immediately after adding water.

From a tasting perspective, An Tea is rewarding at every stage of its evolution. New tea is lively and refreshing, while aged tea is deeper and more mellow—each offering its own distinctive charm. New An Tea is certainly enjoyable; if slight bitterness or astringency is encountered, simply reducing the leaf quantity or shortening the steeping time can reveal a surprisingly pleasant and nuanced cup.

5. Aromatics with an Oolong-Like Complexity

The Zhuye cultivar from Qimen is the primary fresh-leaf material used to produce Qimen An Tea. Its leaves are naturally rich in aromatic compounds, including geraniol with rose-like notes, and linalool, which evokes the floral nuances of lily and lily-of-the-valley. These compounds form the refined and expressive aromatic foundation of An Tea.

The aroma of An Tea is distinctive and multi-layered, shaped by the combined influence of time (aging), craftsmanship (roasting), and nature (bamboo baskets, Ruo Leaves, and regional terroir). The interaction of these elements gives rise to an aromatic profile that is both complex and deeply captivating.

High-quality Qimen An Tea is renowned for its hallmark characteristic known as “Three Aromas in One.” These three aromas refer to the floral fragrance of the tea itself, the fresh, clean scent imparted by bamboo craftsmanship, and the gentle herbal note derived from reed leaf wrapping. Interwoven and inseparable, these elements merge into a uniquely identifiable composite aroma that defines Qimen An Tea.

Viewed through the lens of aging, the aromatic profile of Qimen An Tea can be broadly categorized as follows:

Freshly made An Tea (within the first year): dominated by honeyed floral notes and roasted aromas, lively and bright;
Aged 3–5 years: a harmonious balance of roast, honeyed sweetness, and the early emergence of aged notes;
Aged 5–10 years: roasting aromas gradually recede, aged notes become more pronounced, and honeyed sweetness stands out;
Aged over 20 years: characterized by distinct glutinous-rice notes, deep aged aromas, accompanied by jujube-like sweetness and gentle herbal nuances.

In essence, the aroma of Qimen An Tea is remarkably layered yet cohesive—an elegant expression born of time, technique, and terroir. Its complexity and depth place it among the most distinctive aromatic profiles within the world of dark tea.

6. The “Sacred Tea”

An Tea has long been revered as a “Sacred Tea” or even a “Tea of the Immortals,” a reputation rooted in its perceived functional benefits—benefits that may be regarded as the core value of An Tea. As a historically renowned tea, Qimen An Tea has developed a distinct and well-defined health-oriented identity through centuries of use. Numerous historical texts record its ability to harmonize the internal organs, aid digestion, and counteract heaviness from rich foods, while generations of folk experience have likewise affirmed its role in daily well-being and balance.

Beyond its functional attributes, An Tea carries a rich cultural and historical legacy. Regarded as a refined expression within the category of dark tea, it was widely traded both within China and abroad in earlier times. Its signature aromatic profile—often described as “reed-leaf-aged fragrance”—is a harmonious integration of tea aroma, bamboo freshness, and the gentle herbal scent of reed leaves, forming a distinctive “three aromas in one” identity with remarkable sensory recognition. At the same time, An Tea’s capacity to improve with age endows it with long-term aging and collectible potential.

It is this convergence of function, flavor, cultural depth, healthy benefits, and time-driven transformation that defines the enduring character of Qimen An Tea, fully justifying its long-held title as a true “Sacred Tea.”

7. The Finest An Tea Comes from the Riverbanks

The core production area of An Tea lies in Luxi Township, Qimen County, Anhui Province—an environment seemingly tailor-made for this unique tea. Two major tributaries of the Chang River, the Dahong River and the Dabeishui River, flow through the area, shaping a distinctive and stable river-valley ecosystem.

The landscape here is pristine and lush, with expansive stretches of riverbank islet tea gardens lining the waterways—an exceptional sight rarely found in other tea-producing regions. These river islet gardens play a crucial role in defining the quality of An Tea. Over time, the rivers deposit abundant minerals through alluvial processes, while decomposing leaves and branches enrich the soil with organic matter, creating exceptionally fertile ground. Ample moisture and frequent mist further enhance growing conditions, allowing the tea leaves to develop tender textures and naturally sweet flavors.

In addition, the dense surrounding vegetation provides natural shade, effectively moderating sunlight and fostering balanced accumulation of flavor compounds in the leaves. It is the convergence of these conditions—fertile soil, abundant moisture, gentle light, and rich biodiversity—that gives Qimen An Tea its refined, mellow, and layered character.

For this reason, the finest An Tea is made from “islet-grown tea (洲茶, Zhou Cha)” cultivated along riverbanks. In terms of cultivar, the locally indigenous Zhuye variety of Qimen is considered the most suitable and forms the very foundation of An Tea’s exceptional quality.

8. Unique Packaging: Bamboo Baskets and Ruo Leaves

An Tea is traditionally packaged in bamboo baskets lined with fresh ruo leaves. After harvesting, the ruo leaves are washed, dried, and carefully arranged in the basket before adding the tea. This allows the tea to gradually absorb the aromas of bamboo and ruo leaves during aging, creating a richer, purer, and more layered fragrance. The baskets, handwoven from local bamboo strips in Luxi, are sturdy and durable, effectively protecting the tea even during long-distance transport.

Ruo leaves are naturally clean, aromatic, and provide dust and microbial protection, ensuring the tea remains safe and hygienic during storage and shipment. Over time, their fragrance permeates the tea, promoting internal transformations and enhancing the liquor’s complexity. Traditionally, a piece of reed leaf from the basket is even added when brewing An Tea to enrich its flavor—a concept also seen in Anhua Qianliang Tea.

The packaging system is carefully designed using only bamboo, ruo leaves, and paper, making it natural, breathable, and eco-friendly. With time, the interaction between tea and ruo leaves produces An Tea’s signature “ruo-leaf aged fragrance,” which becomes smoother, richer, and more aromatic with age. Each basket also includes tea tickets for authentication and traceability—front tickets for brand and name, waist tickets for product information, and bottom tickets for company details—ensuring both quality and continuity of An Tea’s historical heritage.

9. Unique Craftsmanship: Sun-Drying, Night Dew

The production of An Tea is intricate and time-intensive, typically taking over six months from harvest to finished tea. Harvesting is concentrated around ten days before and after the Grain Rain period, while the refining process is completed around the White Dew season.

One of An Tea’s most distinctive techniques is “sun-drying by day, dew-exposure by night.” On clear autumn nights, when the White Dew is abundant, tea masters lay the leaves on bamboo mats outdoors, allowing the dew to gently moisten the tea. This process removes harshness and balances the fire within the leaves, forming a key secret behind An Tea’s quality.

10. Grades of An Tea

The grade of An Tea primarily depends on the harvest time and the tenderness of the leaves, ranked from highest to lowest as: Te Gong (特贡, Special Tribute) , Gong Jian (贡尖, Tribute Tip), Mao Jian (毛尖, Downy Tips), and Grade One （一级）. Different grades vary in brewing repetitions, flavor complexity, and market value.

Te Gong consists of whole fresh branches harvested around the Grain Rain period, including buds, leaves, and young stems, selected through cutting and air-sifting to retain one bud with two leaves. Gong Jian is the third leaf along with a small segment of stem from the same selection process. Mao Jian and Grade One are made from the remaining slightly older leaves.

Harvest timing is a critical determinant of grade. Leaves picked after Grain Rain have thinner internal quality and are unsuitable for producing Te Gong or Gong Jian. Similarly, third leaves harvested after the Beginning of Summer, though tender in appearance, generally lack sufficient internal quality and are downgraded to Mao Jian.

An Tea Buying Guide

In terms of raw materials, islet-grown tea (洲茶, Zhou Cha) is the best choice. Representing only about 10% of Qimen County’s tea gardens, it grows along the riverbanks of Luxi Township on fertile alluvial islets. These areas provide abundant moisture, optimal sunlight, and mature tea trees, producing An Tea with rich internal quality and outstanding collectible value.

Regarding grades, Qimen An Tea is meticulously classified based on harvest time and leaf tenderness. Generally, the earlier the harvest and the higher the grade, the better the tea withstands long-term storage. When selecting tea, grade can serve as a reliable indicator of aging potential and collectible worth.

From the perspective of processing and age, An Tea produced with charcoal roasting and the “night dew” technique is considered superior. During the White Dew season, partially roasted Mao Cha is spread outdoors at night to absorb natural dew and then steamed the following day, allowing short-term fermentation that transforms the leaf’s internal quality and lays a foundation for smooth aging. The more times night dew is applied, the more labor-intensive the process, and the higher the resulting tea quality. Aged An Tea has mellowed, losing the “fireiness” of new tea, with a smooth taste and stable aroma, making it a rare and prized selection.